A very big and seldom fang cupper blade.
A
kusu Janus weapon, high 45 cm.
THE ILLUSTRATED WEAPONS on this page ARE SOLD but can
help you to see the quality I can deliver. Send me an email with the kind of weapons you wish to buy, be specific.
by Dr Peter Westerdijk September 6, 2004
When African blades are rusty, or worse, pitted and partly eaten by corrosion, it is always a sign of neglect.
Africans in the old days were keen on keeping their weapons in good shape. Photographs dating back to colonial times show warriors with arms in top condition, brightly shining as the result of regular cleaning.
When we find rusted surfaces, either superficial rust or deeper corrosion, we can clean them by applying waterproof sandpaper of various grains, ranging from fine for light rust to more heavy grains for serious corrosion.
Always use a lot of water to keep your paper clean. A dripping tap gives you just the amount of running water you need for the job.
Never work your surface too bright; just clean is enough.
As for copper and brass weapons or wire of the same materials applied to handles and sheaths, touch them as little as possible to maintain an old appearance.
When cleaned, seal off the surface with an acid-free wax or a thin layer of weapon-oil and corrosion for your items will be a thing of the past.
Some Available African weapons examples. Click on the images to see more and buy.
All illustrated weapons are sold at this moment. If you need some type of
weapons send us a wish list by email:
The Sappo-Sappo are a mixed population group which contains elements of the Tetela, Lulua and Songye. This group was formed around 1880 and specialized in the production of top quality ironwork. The axe shown here is a typical example of the old style of Sappo workmanship and has 32 heads of sculptured iron (16 on each side) The wooden handle is copper-clad. Such axes were no weapons of war, but, tokens of wealth and authority only.
Too heavy to be effectively thrown, this type of arm was used solely as a hand weapon and as an item used for swagger, both by young man and adults. No man would leave his house at night without one to keep stray-dogs at bay. This sound example dates back to the beginning of the 20th century.
Smaller version of the type of number 6. Very fine iron blade and highly detailed sculptured head. This item dates back to the early years of the 20th century.
The Mandingo of Senegal, Gambia, Guinea, Mali, Niger and Ivory Coast are well known for their leather-work. Their iron work skills are less well developed. Many blades including the one of this example are taken from European weapons such as sabers and cutlasses. Fine old piece of the turn of the century (1900)
Comment from a reader of
the African Antiques
discussion group :
There are a couple of adjuncts to your treatise on rust removal and prevention. The nomenclature for the sandpaper to which Dr. Westerdijk refers is Wet/Dry and is available at most hardware stores or Auto Body Supply outlets. This is available in grits from very coarse (100) to ultra-fine (1000). Rather than use oil or tap water most professionals use a combination of water and dishwashing detergent or soap. Always start with the finest grit paper possible and work to even finer grits to avoid scratching. Use a light circular motion on heavy rust working to long circles with the finer papers... make sure to dip in the soap solution often. Don't try to sand out small spots it's better to leave them or work a larger area to feather the edges. The hydrophobic action of the soap helps keep the paper free of clogging and also acts as a lubricant making the job easier. A 1/1 mixture of Boiled Linseed Oil and Turpentine protects the cleaned metal better than any other product and is easily removed without damage to the object.
Jerry Jacob,
San Rafael, California
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